Even if the word has been used in every possible sense over the last two years, it's underlying meaning is constantly changing. "Vintage" is no longer used to signal a somewhat "kitsch" time-period, but instead to exemplify the "finest quality", in a return to the real linguistic origin of the word : "Vingt ans d'age".
Creativity is getting closer to the consumer and reemphasizing its values. The movement is to return to the grand classics, but then to modernize them whilst using the highest-quality ingredients. This is also being called a trend of "Neo-Classicism".
We are seeing the return of true Fougeres in masculine fragrances and even more so classic Chypres for feminine accords, both demonstrating the desire to mark luxury as a sign of the present times and to differentiate established luxury, as a sign of elegance, from the more provocative luxury of the immediate.
All the creative skills of the perfumer are being used in restating olfactive families :
- the Fougere category is leaving behind the overdoses of Dihydromyrcenol and rediscovering fresh aromatics and spices.
- Chypres (both floral and fruity styles) are reestablishing their unique identity and using richer ingredients such as mosses, labdanum, patchouli, and even olibanum.
Innovation is coming then from the "olfactive clarity" of the natural ingredients that perfumes are being built around. There is also a hint of a return to aldehyde accents and especially to the aldehydic florals, being used to highlight the sparkle of sophisticated notes such as orange flower.
To fully partner with this trend, our R&D groups are currently finalizing the launch of a new range of natural ingredients which will be available in the first part of 2007, and which will be shown at the forthcoming World Perfumery Congress to be held in Cannes from the 5th to the 9th June 2007. |